Brighten Winter Days with Stunning Amaryllis Blooms

During the dark days of winter, gardeners crave cheerful, vibrant indoor flowers to brighten moods as they count down the days to spring. And tucked among the holiday decorations, amaryllis do their best to cure seasonal affective disorder, adding beautiful, trumpet-shaped blooms to interiors. But while traditionally grown to show off their beauty during the holidays, amaryllis produces a stunning show when grown to bloom after you pack away the tinsel and trees. After all, interiors tend to look a little sparse once January rolls around—and flowers fill your home with a much-needed boost of color and cheer.

Whether you choose to grow amaryllis for the holidays or want to branch out and brighten your home with unique blooms for Valentine’s Day, you’ll adore these easy-to-grow bulbs. Plus, with a few simple steps, your amaryllis bulbs will entertain you with stunning blooms for years.

What’s in a Name? Amaryllis vs. Hippeastrum

Before we jump into the gorgeous cultivars available and how to grow them, let’s cover a bit of housekeeping. Those scrumptious, lush, lovely flowers that grace holiday centerpieces are not actually amaryllis. The true Amaryllis is a bulb native to South Africa with only one species—Amaryllis belladona, also known as ‘Naked Ladies’—a bulb that produces pink flowers on stems without leaves (pink blooms in photo above).

Instead, the traditional holiday favorite is actually classified as Hippeastrum, from the genus Amaryllidaceae. Native to Central and South America, Hippeastrum includes 90 species and more than 600 cultivars, ranging from ruby-red single blooms most often associated with holiday hostess gifts to double flowers in shades of coral, pink, white, and even bi-colored, to outrageous, skinny green petals from unique hybrids. With such diverse blooms, how can you not want to collect them all?!

For simplicity—and because you’ll most likely see the bulbs marketed as amaryllis rather than Hippeastrum–we’ll use the term amaryllis to refer to the bulbs.

How to Choose an Amaryllis Bulb

You may hear that “size isn’t everything”—but with amaryllis bulbs, size matters. Bigger IS better. You’ll find bulbs offered in a wide range of sizes, with prices increasing with bulb circumference and weight. Measured in centimeters, a large bulb circumference typically indicates a bulb ready to produce multiple flower stalks—and more blooms. If your budget allows, always choose the bigger bulb for a better show.

Also, look for healthy bulbs. Choose firm, mold-free bulbs without blemishes. Make sure your bulb feels firm, like an apple, without any soft spots. Choosing healthy bulbs leads to healthy plants.

Pick Your Amaryllis Bloom Time

When choosing amaryllis bulbs, it’s important to know their origins. If you prefer festive amaryllis flowers to adorn December holiday décor, you’ll want amaryllis bulbs that come from the southern hemisphere. Plant them in October or early November for holiday blooms. Most amaryllis bulbs are grown in Holland and Israel, and more recently—also in South Africa and South America. If you want amaryllis blooms in the first months of the New Year, choose bulbs from the northern hemisphere, as they typically bloom between January-March.

Whichever bulbs you choose, bloom time also depends on when you plant them. You may want to plant a few amaryllis bulbs early for holiday blooms, saving a few to grow later for mid-winter flowers. An amaryllis bulb may produce multiple stalks with a series of blooms that can last a month. Sometimes, more is more—more amaryllis blooms equals more happiness. After all, can you really have too many flowers during chilly winter days?

Which Amaryllis Is Your Favorite?

With so many gorgeous options, why pick just one amaryllis variety? Select several, and you’ll enjoy winter-long blooms to get you through the sad season until spring. Some popular options to consider include:

Single Flowers

Rilona from Brent and Beckys Bulbs - Year of the Amaryllis - National Garden Bureau

Grand Diva (red)
Sweet Star (pink)
Matterhorn (white)
Royal Velvet (burgundy)
Luna (cream and green)
Picotee (white with red edge)
Spartacus (red and white)

Exotic Star (burgundy, white, green)
Bogota (red, light red)
Rosalie (pink and white)
Rosy Star (white and pink)
Evergreen Cybister (green)
Sweet Lilian Cybister (rose, magenta, cream)
Desiree (orange)

Double Flowers

Aphrodite (red and white)
Amadeus Candy (ivory and blush)
Double Dream (deep pink)
White Nymph (white)
Sweet Nymph (pink and white)

Doublet (red and white)
Double Dragon (red)
Double King (red)
Elvas (white, red)
Splash (red and white)

Seven Simple Steps to Grow Amaryllis

Growing amaryllis bulbs offer a high reward for minimal effort:

Choose a container about an inch wider and deeper than the amaryllis bulb. Make sure the container has a drainage hole.
Fill the pot about half full using a high-quality potting mix that contains bark to promote drainage. Amaryllis bulbs can rot if they sit in soggy soil.
Place the bulb in the pot on top of the soil, adding more soil around the sides of the bulb. Leave the top third of the bulb exposed above the soil line.
Water the bulb after planting. Don’t water it again until you see signs of growth, and then water sparingly.
Place the amaryllis where it will receive lots of light—6 hours is ideal. Without adequate light, the flower stalks will stretch to reach light, making them leggy and weak. Use grow lights if natural light isn’t available.
Once flower stalks form buds, begin watering as needed. Check the top two inches of soil. If dry, it’s time to water.
When the flower finishes blooming, cut off the spent flowers, but keep the green stem and additional buds. Do not remove the leaves.

The large, trumpet-shaped flowers of amaryllis can make the plant top-heavy, especially if the plant becomes leggy when stretching for light.

Stake your amaryllis to prevent it from toppling over or breaking. A heavier pot can also weigh down the base to prevent toppling.

How to Care for Amaryllis after Blooming

Sweet Star from Brent and Beckys Bulbs - Year of the Amaryllis - National Garden Bureau

Double King from Brent and Beckys Bulbs - Year of the Amaryllis - National Garden Bureau

When cared for properly, an amaryllis bulb thrives for years, producing beautiful blooms to brighten gray winter days. The secret for keeping your amaryllis bulb healthy involves excellent post-bloom care:

Once the bulb finishes flowering, remove the flower stem. Cut it about an inch above the bulb.
Treat the amaryllis like your houseplants. Place the pot where the foliage continues to receive bright light. Water when needed, making sure the soil is barely moist—never soggy.
Fertilize the plant once or twice per month, using a diluted liquid fertilizer. The strappy amaryllis leaves absorb light, converting starches and sugars to feed the bulb. Producing and storing energy allows the bulb to rebloom the following year.
In spring, when all danger of frost has passed, place the amaryllis pot outside to continue growing. In warm zones where temperatures never drop below 10 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA hardiness zones 9-11), try planting amaryllis bulbs in the garden to grow as perennials.

How to Make Amaryllis Bulbs Bloom Again

When you invest in amaryllis bulbs, a little care and know-how helps make the most of your purchase. Many people toss the bulbs after they bloom. Don’t! But after enjoying the flowers and tending to the bulbs throughout the spring and summer, how do you know when it’s time to get the bulbs ready for their next show?

First, they need a nap.

After putting on a stunning display and then working hard all summer to gather energy, it’s time for the bulbs to rest.

Late summer/early fall: Stop watering and fertilizing. Move the potted bulbs to a cool, dry location away from bright light. A basement or garage, where temperatures stay about 55-60 degrees Fahrenheit, is ideal. As the plant goes dormant, the leaves will wither and die. Remove the dead leaves, snipping them off from the bulb. Let the bulb rest for about 8 to 10 weeks.
Late October (for holiday blooms): Move bulbs out of storage. Check bulbs to ensure they’re healthy. Remove from pot and look for mold or soft spots. Empty old potting soil into the compost pile, rinse pot, and add fresh potting mix. Replant the bulb. Place the pot in a warm, sunny spot indoors. Water thoroughly, then follow directions above—wait to water again until you see active growth. The bulb should bloom in 8 to 10 weeks. For Valentine’s Day blooms—bring the bulbs out of storage in early December, then follow the process above.

If your amaryllis grows leggy, consider using it as a cut flower.

Amaryllis blooms look lovely on their own in a vase or as part of a bouquet. They last just as long as a cut flower as they do when attached to the bulb. Plus, cutting amaryllis stems before they bloom helps the bulb conserve energy for future flowers.

Are Wax-Coated Amaryllis “One and Done”?

In the past few years, wax-coated amaryllis gained popularity as holiday gifts, easily found online and at big-box stores. Most people treat these bulbs as disposable, tossing them in the trash after they finish blooming, since the waxy coating isn’t compostable. Plus, bulbs need to develop roots to absorb the nutrients in soil to produce a healthy, reblooming plant, and the wax restricts the bulb from producing roots.

But while these self-contained floral packages offer an easy, soilless display, you may be able to extend the life of the amaryllis bulb with a little effort. Enjoy the flowers, then follow these steps:

Once the amaryllis bulb finishes blooming, remove the flowers and stem, but keep the leaves intact.
Remove the wax coating from the bulb. Try to peel it off by hand to minimize damage to the bulb, or carefully use a sharp knife to loosen and break the wax.
Plant the bulb in soil, as directed above. Place in bright light. Water and fertilize to encourage roots to form. Continue to grow like a houseplant, or place outside when danger of frost has passed.
Follow the steps to encourage the bulb to rebloom.

Can Amaryllis Grow in Water?

For an easy, pretty display, amaryllis grows beautifully in a vase filled with stones and water. However, the bulb should not touch the water to prevent rot. Instead, follow these steps:

Select a clean, clear vase. A tall vase can help support the top-heavy flowers.
Fill the vase with three to four inches of stones or pebbles.
Place the amaryllis bulb on top of the stones, then add more stones around the bulb for stability.
Add water to the vase to just below the bulb. Make sure the bulb is not sitting in the water, or it may rot. The roots will grow down to reach the water.
Place the vase in bright light.
Monitor the water level, and add more water as needed.
Once the bulb finishes flowering, remove the flower stem. Plant the bulb in a container with potting soil and follow the directions above to encourage blooms the following year.

How to Accessorize Your Amaryllis

With show-stopping blooms, amaryllis bulbs prettify any space. But when they’re first starting out, their pots may look a little less than aesthetically pleasing. Consider creating an appealing top-dressing for the soil. Pretty pebbles, moss, small pinecones, or even petite holiday ornaments add a festive touch to match the stunning flowers. Once you move the plant outside when the weather warms, remove the decorative items.

Are you ready to celebrate the Year of the Amaryllis this winter? Choose your favorite cultivars, make sure to pick up a few extra bulbs for gifts, and enjoy the fabulous, brilliant show.

Did you know that National Garden Bureau members include the most innovative breeders and distributors of amaryllis cultivars?

Whether you’re looking for a hostess gift or a gift for yourself, you’ll find a stunning selection of amaryllis cultivars from National Garden Bureau members.

About National Garden Bureau

Founded more than 100 years ago, the National Garden Bureau educates, inspires, and motivates people to grow home gardens. National Garden Bureau members are horticultural experts, and the information shared with you comes directly from these experts to ensure your gardening success.

“This post is written by humans and is provided as an educational/inspirational service of the National Garden Bureau and our members. Please credit and link to National Garden Bureau and author member when using all or parts of this article.”

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