Year of the Peperomia

Peperomia are having their much-deserved time in the sun, though they have been sold as houseplants since the 1930s.

Overview and History

For decades, there were only a handful of varieties to choose from, but with their new popularity and ease of growth, many additional varieties have come to market. The many types of peperomia can range from bushy to trailing, upright, or cascading, and from fleshy succulent plants to those less so.

Many peperomia survive in nature as epiphytes or lithophytes, meaning they grow on other living and non-living things. Because they grow mostly in the understory in the tropics, they don’t need bright light, making them perfect houseplants. Peperomia never want to be in full sun, though the plants with thick fleshy leaves will need more light than the thinner leaved, less succulent varieties so keep this in mind when setting your plant in your home.

Different Types

Peperomia are a diverse group of plants in the pepper family, Piperaceae, but not the edible pepper family that gives us green and hot peppers. The peperomia come from the pepper family that provides us the pepper spice that gives our food flavor. It would seem then that peperomia might be edible, but they are not for human or pet consumption.

You can choose from many varieties including bushy types as well as trailing varieties. None of the peperomia get overly large, so they are a nice choice for small spaces.

• The succulent species P. obtusifolia is easy to grow as it is not the high-light lover that most succulents are. It thrives in a medium-light and is forgiving of drying out because of its succulence. Its adaptability makes this peperomia a winner all around and it comes in a variegated form as well.
• Peperomia argyreia is also called the watermelon peperomia as its leaves resemble a watermelon’s rind.
• Peperomia caperata or commonly called emerald ripple is also a popular form with its deeply quilted, crinkly leaves.
• You might not guess that P. incana is a peperomia because it is a silver-leaved, fuzzy form that does prefer more sun and tolerates drying out more than the others.
• Peperomia polybotrya or raindrop peperomia is often mixed up with the more well-known Pilea peperomioides (friendship plant). It is more succulent, more tolerant of drying out, and does not have perfectly round leaves as the pilea has.
• Two trailing forms are P. puteolata or parallel peperomia and P. pereskiifolia.  Both are easy to grow and make lovely hanging baskets.
• A resemblance to miniature turtle shells makes the string of turtles or prostrata popular and it is easy to find.

Is it a Peperomia?

If you aren’t sure if you are looking at a peperomia, their “rat-tail” inflorescence (group or cluster of flowers) helps with recognition if they are blooming. The pale, thin, textured inflorescence does resemble a rat’s tail and if the plant is receiving enough light, you will witness its flowers. However, peperomias are not grown for the flowers, but for their amazing foliage.

Peperomia Care Tips

• The care of peperomias depends on the species or cultivar you choose to grow. All of them are a bit succulent, either in their stems or leaves. The truly succulent types, such as P. incana and P. obtusifolia need to be treated as such. Wait until the potting medium is almost completely dry before watering again.
• The less succulent types including P. argyreia, P. caperata, and P. polybotrya, tread a fine line of wanting to dry out but also not wanting to be kept too wet. Check your plant frequently, using your finger to test the moisture, and water when the medium is dry a couple of inches down into the container.
• A peperomia that is too wet will send you the message loud and clear by dropping its leaves because its stems have become mushy at the base. If yellow leaves appear that may be an indicator that you have kept it too moist. You may be able to save it by allowing it to dry out if you notice the yellow leaves soon enough.
• Clay pots will work better for the species of the Peperomia as they allow water to escape through the porous pot sides. Some of these Central and South American natives grow as epiphytes which indicates they don’t have extensive root systems.
• Keep them in a snug pot in a fast-draining potting medium for best results. After purchasing a commercial potting medium, add a good amount of perlite and/or orchid bark to the mix. This will allow the water to drain quickly but it will retain enough moisture for the plant to thrive.
• Peperomia in general don’t need a high light situation, including the more succulent varieties. However, if you have a variegated form, the variegation will stay brighter in a higher light situation.
• If you watch the watering routine closely, keep your plant warm (above 50° F), and give it a medium to bright light, you should have a healthy, thriving peperomia in your plant collection.

Once you have one peperomia, the need to have more varieties will come naturally. It is a great group of plants!

• The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Peperomias (Plus Popular Varieties) by National Garden Bureau
• Houseplants are the new Officeplants by National Garden Bureau

Purchase your Year of the Peperomia plants at your local plant retailer.

The National Garden Bureau recognizes and thanks Lisa Eldred Steinkopf, an NGB member, as author and contributor to this fact sheet. 

This fact sheet is provided as an educational service of the National Garden Bureau. There are no limitations on the use. Please credit National Garden Bureau, and link to this page, when using all or parts of this article or referencing the Year of the program.

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